Showing posts with label history. Show all posts
Showing posts with label history. Show all posts

Sunday, February 21, 2016

Math4Knitters Episode 46

Show notes and more at math4knitters.blogspot.com.


I ran my audio through some filters this week. I hope it sounds better. 

The Story of Portyanki, AKA "Chemical Weapons"

Wrapping feet in cloth didn't end when knitting burst onto the world scene. Russian soldiers were officially issued footcloths, called portyanki, right up until 2013. Want more? Read up here.

https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:FootClothFromFinnishDefenceForces.JPG
Russians weren't the only ones who used footcloths well into the modern era. Finnish soldiers, German soldiers and others from Eastern Europe did, too. (I got that from Wikipedia, so proceed with caution if you accidentally end up a soldier somewhere from the time period after falling through time. It could be wrong.)

Why would you do this to yourself? Footwraps are definitely cheaper and faster to produce than socks. I could see them being made, easily, from old clothes or other linens. They dry faster than socks. You can re-wrap them in a different direction, so they could still be used even if they had a worn spot or a hole. 

This reusable nature wasn't always a blessing, though. My favorite tales of portyanki have to do with the smell. From the Moscow Times

"They believe that footcloth smell could defeat any enemy, because no European or American can deal with such a smell," she said. "They just smell it and die instantly."

Bykov agreed, recalling, "They smelled terribly, and everyone said portyanki were chemical weapons."

...and another thing that didn't occur to me...

Sometimes footcloths are a blessing in disguise, Merridale said, because when soldiers get their boots, they don't necessarily get ones that fit them.

"If you are good at wrapping portyanki, then you can wrap up five or six and end up with boots that really fit," Merridale said.

I also have a general theory that people who didn't (or don't) wear socks and shoes every day simply have less sensitive feet. A soldier backs me up in this BBC article about wearing portyanki: 

"Your feet become so hard you can drive in nails with your toes".

So, there's that. 

And Now, A Little Tale of My Hubris

As modern knitters and knit designers, it's easy to get carried away and think that the way that we write knitting patterns is superior to writers of the past. 

We are working under different assumptions and expectations made by our audiences, our publishers and ourselves. 

When you read "Maintain decreases, in pattern," don't think the writer is just being lazy. She/he may have severe space restraints. She/he may *gasp* simply expect that her/his audience is well-versed in knitting and would be annoyed by stitch-by-stitch instructions. 

A little over a year ago, one of my knitting students brought me a well-loved slipper that her mother made her about 30 years before. She asked me if it would be possible to write a pattern from it. I did my best. Then, about a week later, a friend of mine dropped an old booklet on my desk. I think it was to tease me, but I was delighted. It included a pattern for those slippers!

The Bernhard Ulmann Co. gave these slippers the charming name of “Slippers No. 2260” in Bucilla Vol. 340, which cost $3.50 in 1976. The pattern is probably at least as old as 1950, and if anyone hunts around enough, I’m sure they will find several versions. I’ve already heard many charming stories of people learning how to knit with this pattern, which I absolutely adore!
I thought the pattern would be perfect for my beginning knitting students, so I tried just photocopying it for them. As we worked through it, together, however, I found several ways to make the pattern easier to use and, frankly, more fun to knit.
So, I rewrote it. Our beloved, invented-in-the-1980’s ssk didn’t exist at the time, so I added that in. I also added some slipped stitches at the beginning of most of the rows, to make the top edge of the slipper a little neater. I’m also not crazy about counting stitches on every other row, so I put in stitch markers to keep my place. To be nice to our friends everywhere, I’ve also added metric measurements.
The original pattern was amazingly concise. I actually covered it up with my iPhone and I don't have one of the huge ones! But, the original author did something well that I did rather...less well. 
The toe of the slipper is all in ribbing. I wrote out stitch-by-stitch instructions for keeping up the ribbing along with the decreases. She/he wrote: "Work 6 (6-8) sts..."
Well, I completely messed up the second decrease row. If you follow my instructions to a T, your ribbing will be off. It is the last row of the pattern and it doesn't really show if you mess it up, but I'm sure it would be frustrating to get all of the way to the end and have it look wrong! 
I could have charted the toe. I probably should have. Instead, I wrote it all out, stitch by stitch, found the center of each row, and ended up with this big slice of crazy. 

It looks like I stumbled when I thought that the center stitch will be the same on an even number of stitches, worked an even number of times as when it's worked an odd number of times. 
In other words, I probably thought about: 
P1 (k1, p1) worked once - where the center stitch is a k1. 
but:
P1 (k1, p1) worked twice - the center stitch is a p1. Written out: P1, k1, p1, k1, p1. 
Now that I see it, I'm like, well, of course! But, I hadn't thought of it before. The sizes for this pattern don't have large differences between them, just a few stitches, which I think makes a mistake like this more likely. But, having noticed this, I will be more vigilant when I write slipped-stitch heel flaps. It feels like this could happen very easily there, too. 
I will test-knit the final three rows of each size, just to be sure that it's correct before I unleash this madness on an unsuspecting world. 

If you have already bought the pattern, please accept my apologies. That's what I get for thinking that a simple pattern is easy to re-invent! I'll send an update when I finish. 

Sunday, February 07, 2016

Math4Knitters: Episode 45

Show notes and more at math4knitters.blogspot.com.

Math4Knitters: Episode 45


Awesome illustration by Leslie Johnson

Books I mentioned:



The sound quality on this isn't quite as good as I would like, but I'm determined to not let the perfect be the enemy of the good. I am using a microphone, and I'll see if backing away more from the computer's fan will help when I'm recording. 

Tuesday, October 13, 2015

Lovely Time in Pocohontas, IA



I had a lovely time last weekend talking about knitting, spinning, history and socks!!!! It was the first time the Little Sioux Spinners and Weavers Guild brought a speaker to their annual meeting and it was a total blast. Thank you to all of the wonderful ladies who were great students and an attentive audience. 

Friday, June 05, 2015

"One Lifetime Isn't Long Enough" and Weekend Class Savings




After our visit to the American Swedish Institute (which is just amazing, on so many levels), I thought, "Huh, maybe I'll do a knitting pattern incorporating that amazing Hilma Berglund quote."

It's kind of a good thing that I didn't start on that thought! This week, I picked up Swedish Handknits and, well, there's a glove design that does that right on the cover. :)

P.S. - This Sunday, I'll be at Park the Street 2. Come say hi!

P.P.S. - There is a HUGE sale this weekend on Craftsy classes. Every class is up to 50% off. (If you click through this link to check it out, it helps me no matter which class you choose, so, you know, please do so!)



Tuesday, June 02, 2015

Sock Seams



Modern knitters are often a bit shocked to hear about sock seams that run under the heel (and even, under the entire foot, as in this example from the American Swedish Institute.) It's from the 1920s or the 1930s.

It's hard to see in this photo, but I swear the seam is there. It runs all of the way from the top of the cuff, down around the heel and under the foot to the toe. 

I think people did have tougher feet back then. Shoe style and fit expectations can change how a sock really "needs" to fit and feel, too. But, people also had different expectations of their clothes. Now, comfort is the most important element of most of our clothing. Then, practicality, cost, durability, and style were all more important, usually, than flat-out comfort. 

Socks with seams down the back and sole are easy to make on a regular knitting machine (someone, please correct me if I'm wrong). That made them inexpensive and widely available. But, it also explains why hand-knit socks were such a focus of knitting for war efforts, even during WWII. Most hand-made socks wear better, generally, and provide better padding in heavy boots than most machine-made socks, especially if you are comparing a sock with seams to a sock without seams.

I grew up wearing machine-knit socks with seams across the top of the toe. It never bothered me - until I tried my first pair of hand-knit socks. After that, there was no going back! 

Tuesday, March 17, 2015

I May Find This Way Too Amusing...



One of the "red herrings" in knitting history is actually red.


I may or may not laugh like a maniac when I say this at my talk tonight. It probably depends on my level of anxiety.